- On April 28, 2015
Originally Published: December 1st, 2013
Tricia Cornell, Tim Gihring, Rachel Hutton, James Norton, Quinton Skinner, and Joy Summers of Minnesota Monthly
For most diners, learning exactly how much butter and salt goes into the average restaurant dish might be enough to trigger a heart attack. Not so at Marin, sister restaurant to Mill Valley Kitchen in St. Louis Park, which brought healthful, California-inspired cuisine to the swank Chambers hotel in downtown Minneapolis. The restaurant prints the nutritional information right on the menu, and you’ll be pleasantly surprised by how much flavor can be packed into, say, a 360-calorie bison burger. With judicious application of acid and spice, chef Mike Rakun makes lean proteins such as marlin crudo and whole grains like lemon quinoa taste indulgent—he knows how to satisfy diners without having to wrap everything in bacon and deep-fry it. The space’s handsome, rich makeover, which dispensed with the stark, gallery whites, feels both luxurious and inviting. This is especially true when nursing an after-dinner cocktail among the stacks of artfully arranged tomes in the lower-level library.